This was relatively easy. The guide first tells you to bend the plastic stopper pipes, then heat them. I used a heat gun and noticed they started to melt rather quickly. It may be worth keeping the heat low. I did not want to use a lighter, but suppose it would work. I had the remove the tank and increase the bend. The vent pipe had 45% cut made to it to prevent it from getting blocked on the top of the tank.
The diagram shown of the internal tank configuration is not the same as the stopper. The lower filling tube will not go to the bottom of the tank. This is not a problem anyway. The top vent that connects to the silencer does need to be correct. I made sure the brass fuel pickup was at the end of the tank, to make sure it will always work.
I had trouble getting the silicon tube onto the brass fuel pickup unit. The guide does not specify a fuel line size. Mine seemed ok, but tore when first fitted. The second attempt was fine. The other pipes were easy to fit. I did mark the pipes as suggested to identify them once in the plane.
A recent article suggested adding protective foam around the tank to prevent air bubbles. These apparently appear if the tank moves in the plane. I have added foam to help prevent any movement, however not like my photo. The push rods would be in the way. I cut the foam and fitted it under the tank.
Before fitting the tank, I painted SIG dope inside the fuel area to prevent any damage from the engine oil and fuel during flight.
The last part is glueing in the piece of wood around the tank. It only goes one way. The plastic aerial tube fits on the left, if looking from the front of the plane. The pushrod goes through on the lower right. The little block of wood keeps everything in place.
I may still fit a fuel filter like the JR version that eliminates bubbles.
Next is the servos.
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